Museum Monday!

1780 Brown Jean Stays/Corset 248.2004.01

 This week's Museum Monday lucky number is 248!  This late 18th c corset, or 'stay' as they were commonly referred to as, is a true work of art.  After examining one up close and holding it in ones hands, it is easy to understand why the majority of stay makers in the 18th c were men~ they are heavy, all hand stitched thru layer upon layer of linen and whalebone....something that needed strong hands to accomplish.  This era of stays do not lie flat when placed on a table...their shape is like a funnel or ice cream cone, both on and off the body! The cream silk ribbons center front are merely decorative, and have been laced thru the stitching along the center front seams.

The outer fabric is a chocolate brown jean with linen lining. Shoulder straps tie thru single eyelet holes near the underarm side seam, which would keep the straps tight on the arm, pulling the shoulders up and back to achieve proper posture. Waist is tabbed to provide ease over the hips and a nice snug glove like fit. Stitching of the whalebone channels can be seen, with direction carefully placed on the diagonal, wrapping around the wearers torso, making wear very comfortable. Along the chest edge, horizontal whalebone strips can be seen.

 The linen lining is attached only at the edge seams, with body cut from a single piece. The tabs have been cut separately and seamed on across their tops, the whole lining appearing to hover above the actual surface of the stays.

 To really appreciate the workmanship and skill involved in stitching a set of stays, one really needs to get their nose up close~ here the shoulder strap lining can be seen, as well as the inside of the center back closing. A contrasting cream linen thread has been used, so each and every stitch can be seen, and was meant to be seen.  The hand stitched eyelets are wonderful.

 Inside lining at the underarm~ one can see slight perspiration staining, and see how close the shoulder strap hole is to the underarm? The placement of this hole was key in a proper fit for the upper body, to really get the shoulders drawn back, and push the bosom up. If one did not have a perfect fit here, in the cut of their stays, this area would dig into the body and cause painful chaffing~ the next time you have a chance to examine an 18th c corset, check to see if there is wear in this area~ you may even see some that have been cut out here and restitched.

 Minute perfect little stitches for each and every whalebone channel~ while the stitching reaches all the way to the edge binding, the whalebone is cut short, with a single stitch placed in the center of each channel to keep the bones from shifting.

I left this last picture large so you can click on it to see the stitching up close.  I hope you enjoyed today's Museum Monday~ if you did, please pick up to 3 numbers between 1-920 and leave in the comment section so Pip can draw out next weeks piece!